Eye Makeup Techniques for Different Eye Shapes

Identifying Your Eye Shape

Before diving into specific techniques, let's identify the main eye shapes. Look at your eyes in a mirror, keeping your expression neutral, and compare them to these descriptions:

Almond Eyes

Considered the "standard" eye shape in makeup tutorials:

• Oval-shaped with a slight upward tilt at the outer corners
• The iris may be partially covered by the upper and lower lids
• When open, the white of the eye is not visible all around the iris
• The crease is visible when the eyes are open

Round Eyes

These eyes appear larger and more open:

• The white of the eye is visible around the top and bottom of the iris
• The eyes have a more circular appearance than almond eyes
• The crease is visible when the eyes are open
• There's little to no upward tilt at the outer corners

Hooded Eyes

Characterized by a fold of skin that covers the crease:

• The crease is partially or completely hidden when eyes are open
• Eyelid space appears smaller
• May be genetic or develop with age as skin loses elasticity
• When applying eyeshadow, much of it disappears when the eyes are open

Monolid Eyes

Characterized by a flat surface with no visible crease:

• No visible crease between the upper lid and brow bone
• The eyelid appears to be one continuous surface
• Common in East Asian facial structures
• Often have a flatter eyelid surface

Downturned Eyes

The outer corners slope downward:

• The outer corners tilt downward rather than upward
• Can create a slightly drooping appearance
• May become more pronounced with age
• The crease is typically visible when eyes are open

Upturned Eyes

The outer corners tilt upward:

• The outer corners of the eyes tilt noticeably upward
• The lower lid appears longer than the upper lid
• Often creates a natural "cat eye" effect
• The crease is typically visible when eyes are open

Deep-Set Eyes

Set deeper into the eye socket:

• Eyes appear recessed under the brow bone
• The brow bone casts a shadow on the eyelid
• Often creates a natural shadow in the crease
• May make eyes appear smaller or more intense

Protruding Eyes

Also called prominent eyes:

• Eyes appear to bulge outward from the eye socket
• Large, rounded appearance
• The eyelid may be more visible
• Crease is typically very visible

Remember that many people have combination eye shapes. For example, you might have hooded eyes that are also downturned, or almond eyes that are deep-set. Identify your primary eye shape and then adapt techniques as needed.

Essential Eye Makeup Techniques for All Eye Shapes

Before diving into shape-specific techniques, here are some universal tips that benefit all eye shapes:

Prep Work

• Always use an eyeshadow primer to prevent creasing and increase longevity
• Set your primer with a translucent powder or skin-toned eyeshadow
• Invest in quality brushes — at minimum, a flat shader brush, a blending brush, and a detail brush
• Work from light to dark shades, building intensity gradually

Basic Three-Shadow Technique

This versatile approach can be adapted for any eye shape:

1. Apply a light shade across the entire lid up to the brow bone
2. Place a medium transition shade in the crease and blend upward
3. Add a darker shade to add depth where needed (customized based on eye shape)

Techniques for Specific Eye Shapes

Almond Eyes

Considered the most versatile eye shape, almond eyes can pull off virtually any look. To enhance their natural beauty:

Enhancing Techniques:

• Apply darker shadow in a "V" shape at the outer corner to accentuate the natural almond shape
• Smudge eyeliner along the upper lash line, slightly thickening it at the outer third
• Apply highlighter at the inner corner and beneath the arch of the eyebrow
• Focus mascara on the center and outer lashes to enhance the almond shape

Avoid:

• Harsh lines that disrupt the natural flow of the eye shape
• Too much shadow below the lower lash line, which can drag the eye down

Hooded Eyes

The key with hooded eyes is working with the limited visible lid space and creating the illusion of a lifted eye.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Apply eyeshadow with your eyes open to ensure placement is visible
• Place your crease color slightly above the natural crease so it's visible when eyes are open
• Use matte shades for the hood and save shimmer for the center of the mobile lid
• Tightline the upper lash line instead of using thick eyeliner that takes up precious lid space
• Create a "floating crease" by applying darker shadow just above where your natural crease sits
• Wing your eyeliner upward to lift the eye, but keep the line thin

Avoid:

• Heavy application of shimmer on the hood, which can emphasize it
• Thick eyeliner that takes up most of your visible lid space
• Applying dark colors all over the lid, which can make eyes appear smaller

Monolid Eyes

Without a defined crease, the key is creating dimension through strategic color placement.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Create a gradient effect, with darker shadow at the lash line gradually blending upward
• Use shimmery shadows on the center of the lid to create dimension
• Apply eyeliner in a gradated thickness, starting thin at the inner corner and thickening toward the outer corner
• A subtle wing can elongate the eye shape
• Consider applying false lashes that are longer at the outer corners

Avoid:

• Attempting to create a Western-style crease with dark shadow
• Using too many dark colors, which can make eyes appear smaller
• Applying the same thickness of eyeliner across the entire lid

Round Eyes

Round eyes already appear large and open. Techniques focus on elongating and creating a more almond-like appearance.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Focus darker shadows on the outer third of the eye in a sideways "V" shape
• Extend eyeshadow slightly beyond the outer corner in a winged shape
• Apply eyeliner thicker at the outer corner and wing it outward
• Concentrate mascara on the outer lashes
• Smudge a soft line of shadow or liner along the lower lash line, focusing on the outer half

Avoid:

• Applying dark colors all around the eye, which emphasizes roundness
• Circular eyeshadow application that follows the natural round shape
• Heavy liner on the lower lash line

Downturned Eyes

The goal is to create a lifting effect that counteracts the downward tilt.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Apply darker shadow in an upward wing shape at the outer corner
• Wing eyeliner upward to counteract the downward tilt
• Focus highlighter at the center of the lid and inner corner
• Apply mascara with an emphasis on lifting the outer lashes upward
• Keep the lower lash line clean or very subtly defined

Avoid:

• Applying dark shadow or eyeliner that follows the downward tilt
• Heavy makeup on the lower lash line, especially at the outer corners
• Drooping winged liner that emphasizes the downturned shape

Upturned Eyes

These eyes already have a natural lift, so techniques can either enhance or balance this feature.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Emphasize the natural cat-eye shape with winged liner
• Apply darker shadow at the outer corner in an upward sweep
• Balance the upward tilt by applying a small amount of shadow or liner to the lower lash line
• Highlight the inner corner and center of the lid

Avoid:

• Excessively dramatic upward wings if you prefer a more balanced look
• Heavy lower lash line makeup that can make eyes appear droopy

Deep-Set Eyes

The goal is to bring the eyes forward and minimize the shadowed appearance.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Use light, shimmer shades on the lid to bring the eyes forward
• Apply darker colors only at the outer corner, not in the crease
• Highlight the brow bone subtly to minimize the prominence of the brow bone
• Curl lashes to open up the eyes
• Use lighter colored eyeliner on the waterline to brighten

Avoid:

• Dark colors in the crease, which will make eyes recede further
• Heavy brow bone highlighting, which can emphasize the deep-set nature
• Dark colors all around the eye

Protruding Eyes

The goal is to minimize the prominence and create the illusion of depth.

Enhancing Techniques:

• Use matte, darker shades on the lid to create depth
• Apply medium to dark shades in the crease
• Extend shadow slightly beyond the outer corner
• Use darker eyeliner on the upper and lower lash lines
• Avoid overly curling the lashes, which can emphasize the protruding effect

Avoid:

• Frosted or metallic shadows that reflect light and draw attention to the lid
• White or light eyeliner on the waterline
• Very heavy mascara that emphasizes the prominent shape

Eyeliner Techniques for Different Eye Shapes

Almond Eyes

Nearly any liner style works, but to enhance the natural shape:

• Start thin at the inner corner and gradually thicken toward the outer corner
• Extend slightly beyond the outer corner with a subtle wing

Hooded Eyes

The challenge is creating liner that's visible and doesn't transfer:

• Keep the line thin along the lash line
• Create the wing with eyes open, looking straight ahead
• Consider a "batwing" liner that looks straight when eyes are open
• Tightline the upper lash line to define eyes without taking up lid space

Monolid Eyes

Liner can create dimension and the appearance of depth:

• Create a thicker line that's visible when eyes are open
• A slight upward wing can elongate the eye
• Consider a subtle "floating liner" slightly above the lash line

Round Eyes

Liner can help elongate the circular shape:

• Focus on the outer half of the eye
• Create a wing that extends outward rather than upward
• Avoid fully lining the lower lash line

Downturned Eyes

The right liner can create an instant lift:

• Start the wing before reaching the outer corner
• Angle the wing upward to counteract the downward tilt
• Keep the lower lash line clean or very subtly lined

Eyeshadow Placement for Different Eye Shapes

Eyeshadow placement is perhaps the most customizable aspect of eye makeup for different shapes. Here's a quick reference:

Almond Eyes

• Light shade on lid
• Medium shade in crease
• Dark shade in outer "V"
• Highlight inner corner and brow bone

Hooded Eyes

• Light shade on mobile lid
• Place crease color above natural crease so it's visible with eyes open
• Dark shade at outer corner, blended upward
• Subtle highlight at inner corner

Monolid Eyes

• Create a gradient from lash line upward
• Darker color near lash line
• Medium color in the center of the lid
• Lighter color toward the brow bone

Round Eyes

• Light shade on lid
• Medium shade in crease, focused on outer half
• Dark shade at outer corner, extended outward
• Avoid placing dark colors on the lower lash line

Downturned Eyes

• Light shade on lid
• Medium shade in crease, angled upward at outer corner
• Dark shade at outer corner in an upward angle
• Highlight inner corner to open the eye

Mascara Application for Different Eye Shapes

Even the way you apply mascara can be tailored to your eye shape:

Almond Eyes

Focus on both length and volume, emphasizing the center and outer lashes.

Hooded Eyes

Curl lashes well and focus on lifting the lashes upward to open the eye. Consider waterproof formulas to prevent smudging.

Monolid Eyes

Curl lashes significantly and focus on building volume at the roots. Consider individual lashes at the outer corners for a cat-eye effect.

Round Eyes

Focus mascara on the outer lashes and apply less to the center lashes to create an elongated effect.

Downturned Eyes

Focus on lifting the outer lashes upward and avoid heavily coating the lower lashes, which can emphasize the downward tilt.

False Lashes for Different Eye Shapes

When selecting false lashes, consider these guidelines:

Almond Eyes

Most styles work well. For enhancement, choose lashes that are slightly longer at the center and outer corners.

Hooded Eyes

Choose lashes that are longer at the outer corners and not too dense, which can cast shadows on already hooded lids.

Monolid Eyes

Select lashes that are longest at the outer corners to create a lifting effect. Individual lashes can work particularly well.

Round Eyes

Choose lashes that are longest at the outer corners to elongate the eye shape. Avoid lashes that are uniformly long.

Downturned Eyes

Select lashes that are significantly longer at the outer corners to create a lifting effect.

Final Thoughts and Tips

• These guidelines are starting points, not rigid rules. Feel free to adapt and experiment.
• Many people have combination eye shapes. Identify your primary characteristics and blend techniques.
• Your eye shape might change slightly with age. Be open to adapting your techniques over time.
• Makeup should enhance your natural features, not completely change them.
• Practice makes perfect. Take time to experiment with different techniques to find what works best for you.

Remember that makeup is a form of self-expression. While these techniques are designed to enhance your natural eye shape according to traditional beauty standards, you should always feel free to create looks that make you feel confident and beautiful, regardless of "rules."